There’s something about ancient sites that really inspires me. To see first hand just how ingenious humans can be, especially when faced with construction challenges a millennia ago is just mind-boggling. That’s what was running through my head as I wandered through the misty jungles towards Borobudur, the largest Buddhist temple in the world!
I admit, I had never heard of Borobudur before I started reading up on Indonesia, but it could well qualify as one of the wonders of the world. Built perfectly symmetrically around a hill, at first glance, Borobudur is nothing more than large gray behemoth. And certainly not something that will photograph well!
But step on to one of its staircases, facing the four cardinal directions, and Borobudur begins to reveal itself. This is a temple of levels, 10 in all, each representing a phase in a spiritual journey. Most people just walk straight to the top, but in doing so, you’d miss the entire message that Borobudur conveys! Its story is told in over 1,600 beautifully carved relief panels that line the entire perimeter. Angkor Wat, eat your heart out!
At the beginnings of this mammoth temple, there is nothing but bare stone on the walls. But by the third level, you see reliefs depicting the earthly desires that the Buddha teaches you to escape. Buddhas in alcoves ominously keep watch overhead, a constant reminder that following the Buddha’s teachings will help you rise above this.
Continuing up to the next gallery, you move into carvings depicting the life of the historical Buddha, a real-life prince named Siddhartha who lived in modern-day India. His birth, where his mother dreamt she was impregnated a white elephant. His sheltered upbringing, which he was keen to escape. His journeys to the world outside his palace, where he encountered suffering in the form of an old man, a sick man and a corpse. And his journey to escape the cycle of suffering (the endless cycle of rebirth).
As you reach the upper levels, the rigid square shapes and right angles give way to a totally different world. This is a world where there isn’t a single straight line. The reliefs are gone, instead replaced by circular platforms containing perfectly round, bell-shaped stupas, each with a lattice-pattern and containing a Buddha image. This represents the Buddha’s teachings about going towards enlightenment.
The stupas are all nearly identical, minus two, where the Buddhas are exposed (making for some phenomenal photo opportunities). And once you reach the next level, you notice that the stupas have a square pattern rather than a diamond one. This is the world starting to make sense. Confusion disappearing.
And at the top? A giant bell-shaped stupa towering high above all others. With smooth lines and no lattice-pattern, it is the picture of simplicity. This is nirvana, where you escape from all those earthly desires and escape from the perpetual suffering the Buddha teaches.
And I have to tell you, sitting up there, looking out over the misted-over jungle towards the distant volcanoes that ring the temple, everything else just disappears. That hustle and bustle of daily life. That concern for money and your busy schedule. Hunger. It’s all gone. Suddenly, you feel just as peaceful as a Buddha, peacefully staring off into the distance.
Borobudur, I’ll never forget you, for your symbolism really spoke to me!
What About You?
Have you visited Borobudur? Did it speak to you too?